© 2021 MJH Life Sciences and Dermatology Times and Multimedia Medical, LLC. all rights reserved.
© 2021 MJH Life Sciences™, Dermatology Times and Multimedia Medicine LLC. all rights reserved.
Natural skin care ingredients are always popular, said Patricia K. Farris, MD, to hear her views on using these ingredients in combination with other treatments.
Patricia K. Farris, MD, pointed out in a speech at the 2021 Music City SCALE Beauty Advancement and Laser Education Symposium in Nashville, Tennessee, that natural skin care ingredients are always a trend. The news now is: these ingredients are used in a variety of formulas, designed to work synergistically. 1
After 12 weeks, the patient's pigment spots were reduced by an average of 8%, and skin firmness was statistically significantly improved compared to baseline. 2 Farris attributed these improvements to the skin brighteners, retinol and peptides in Advanced Retinol Restorer.
The diamond nanoparticles in Precious Elixir Infusion Diamond (U.SK Under Skin) are another part of the night study protocol and carry pentapeptide 35. Farris pointed out that this peptide is a Sirtuin-1 analogue and its effect is similar to resveratrol.
The morning regimen in the study included Precious Elixir Infusion Pearl & Caviar (U.SK Under Skin). She said that while pearl and caviar-based skin care products sound like marketing hype, these ingredients provide real benefits. Pearl powder has a long history as a rejuvenating ingredient in traditional Chinese medicine. 3 It can inhibit tyrosinase (used for whitening), anti-oxidation and metal chelation. "It's also a very good moisturizer," Faris said. Caviar extract provides protein, vitamins (A, B2, B6, B12, niacin, pantothenic acid and folic acid), essential fatty acids and minerals.
The morning regimen of the study also includes: Advanced Defense Booster (U.SK Under Skin). Its main ingredients include ferulic acid, olive leaf extract, maslinic acid, trace minerals and peptides. Farris said that compared with the baseline, the complete scheme improved the smoothness and dryness by 60% and 82%, respectively.
Antioxidants have succeeded on multiple levels. Farris said that in addition to preventing sun damage, certain antioxidants, such as vitamin C, can also promote collagen formation and reduce hyperpigmentation. Vitamin E and Vitamin C together provide antioxidant synergy. She pointed out that L-ascorbic acid needs to be formulated at a low pH, so adding peptides to vitamins C and E is a formulation challenge. Therefore, EverActive C&E Peptide (AlumierMD) isolates l-ascorbic acid crystals in a compartment, which empties into the serum when the lid is pressed.
"This is an innovative way to keep peptides and vitamin C separate before mixing the formula," she said. "This is a three-month supply divided into three smaller 30-day supply units."
In a 2-month open-label trial, 71% of patients showed significant improvement in wrinkles (8%-9%) from baseline (P <.05). 4 In addition, 68% of patients showed significant improvement in periorbital isotropy, measuring the effect of palmitoyl tripeptide-38 on the dermal matrix at 1 month.
Farris said that in addition to solving complex skin care problems, multi-ingredient formulas can also meet the needs of patients for simple solutions. "I have always been this philosophy," she said. "If you give people an overly complex plan, their [compliance] will drop significantly."
Farris points out that an effective regimen may be as simple as using 1 product in the morning and 1 product in the evening (excluding cleansers and toners), or “as complicated as 2 or 3 products that may be stacked together. "She said that based on her experience, the best choice is 2 or less products in the morning and 2 or less products in the evening: "The simpler the regimen, the better."
Farris has been a spokesperson, investigator or consultant for Alastin, CeraVe, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Health, La Roche-Posay, NeoStrata, SkinCeuticals and U.SK Under Skin.
Faris PK. The next generation of cosmeceuticals. Published in: Music City SCALE Beauty and Laser Education Seminar; August 18-22, 2021; Nashville, Tennessee
Farris P, Draelos ZD, Felipe de Oliveira Stehling L. Innovative facial care program can improve the appearance of aging skin. J drug skin disease. 2021;20(3):274-278. doi:10.36849/JDD.5791
Shao DZ, Wang CK, Hwang HJ, Hung CH, Chen YW. Comparison of hydration, tyrosinase resistance and antioxidant activity of three pearl powders. J Cosmetic Science. 2010; 61: 133-145.
Lintner K, Gerstein F, Solish N. A serum containing vitamin C&E and matrix repair tripeptides can reduce the signs of facial aging, as evidenced by Primos analysis and frequent repetitive self-perceptions. J Cosmetic Dermatology. 2020;19(12):3262-3269.doi:10.1111/jocd.13770